Recipe by Hanna Geller of Building Feasts
While I generally reserve these as a Hanukkah treat (mainly because we consume a year’s worth in a week), they should really be made on rotation all year around. They are that good.
There ain't no party like a Latke Party……..
I applaud the unwritten rule that every holiday must be honoured with festive fare. Latkes are a Hanukkah staple as we light menorahs and eat fried food to symbolise the miracle of the single cruse of oil that lasted for 8 days. These crisp mouthfuls of pure potato joy (and their root vegetable cousin varieties) are my favourite way to celebrate and consumed by the dozens. No complaints here on the fried food element of the holiday.
Like every good Jewish recipe, there are multiple opinions and endless debates on how-to, with-what and when-to make said item. So just to test the arguments, this year I’m making three varieties, with a multiple choice of toppings. Yes, we are having a Latke Party! (And there’s no better way to show off my favourite Mud Australia colours)
The straight potato latke, the OG as it’s referred to around here, will always be close to my heart in all it’s golden beauty. But I love the sweet potato parsnip variety, and the beetroot carrot and feta rounds of colourful joy feel almost virtuous in their deliciousness. All three varieties share the important rosti type quality with crunchy jagged edges, light, and not too cake-y in the middle. Basically, more hash brown, less kugel.
I’m channelling Thanksgivukkah with my toppings this year and marrying up some of my favourite holiday flavours. Sour cream and apple sauce will still represent (because tradition) alongside apple-cranberry sauce (my love of the ruby fruit runs so deep), a horseradish and a green goddess sour cream (colour and flavour) and some salmon roe (chic). Full disclosure, I’m not making applesauce - it shamelessly came from a jar for pure nostalgia and because I need to draw the line somewhere.
The important thing here is to take your time and don’t cheat. These latkes might look like a labour of love, but they really do not take long. They are old school in their method (thank you Oma for the tricks). For the pure potato version, please grate them by hand. It makes a massive difference to the texture (and it’s very meditative). Do not skip the wringing out all the liquid stage - it’s essential. It keeps the latkes crisp and not a hint of soggy in the middle. (You have full permission to be a little flexible with a food processor for the the root vegetable varieties as they are less starchy.)
Here’s for the real latke hack…..when you wring out the grated potato and onion mixture in a tea towel, make sure you catch all the liquid in a bowl. At the bottom, rests a thin white layer of potato starch. That is the latke miracle. Tip out the water, reserving the magic ingredient and mix it into the now liquid free grated mixture for a badass binder, creating lighter, crispier latkes. Bingo.
Please feel free to get creative with flavour and add a few spices - ground cinnamon, fennel coriander and cumin seeds, fresh herbs and a little heat don’t go amiss. Latkes also provide the backbone for a great festive dinner, topped with smoked salmon and crispy fried eggs (the fried theme is strong). While I generally reserve these as a Hanukkah treat (mainly because we consume a year’s worth in a week), they should really be made on rotation all year around. They are that good.
So, here’s to comfort festive feasts and celebrations of miracles and lights. I think we all need a little bit of this right now - it transcends all beliefs.
These recipes make 16 larger size latkes (about 12cm/3 inches in diameter) if you use a soup spoon to scoop the mixture, or 20 smaller latkes (10cm/2inch diameter) if you use a dessert spoon to scoop. I use my hands (I grab a 3 finger pinch of mixture and gently lower it into the hot oil) so mine are pretty much all over the show in size, but to me that’s part of the fun.
A Note on Latkes –
You really need to grate, squeeze and make these in one go. However, the re-heat and freeze beautifully. So make them ahead and either pop into the fridge (or freezer) and reheat before serving.
Draining the latkes on paper towel before transferring them to a rack really ensures a perfect crispy surface with no soggy bottom.
Ingredients
Potato Latkes
1 kg (2lbs) potatoes I use Maris Piper, King Edward or Russet potatoes because they are my favourite for chips/french fries. Use whichever is your favourite variety.
1 medium yellow onion (personally I like a sweeter onion here)
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tbsp flour
1 tsp salt & a good grind of pepper
Vegetable / sunflower / flavourless oil for shallow frying
Method
Potato Latkes
Peel and grate the potatoes and onions together on the large holes of a box grater.
Rest your tea towel or cheesecloth over a large mixing bowl and fill with all your grated potatoes and onion. Gather together the corners and squeeze everything together over the bowl to catch the liquid. You will be amazed how much water comes out. Let the liquid settle for a minute or two and then pour off the water, reserving the potato starch in the bottom. Make sure you do not pour it out with the water - this is your latke miracle.
Add the grated onion and potatoes to the bowl with the potato starch. Add the beaten egg, flour salt and pepper (add any spices if you want to here).
Before starting to cook, have 2 large sheet pans ready, one lined with paper towel and one set with a rack on top.
Heat 1cm of oil in the bottom of a frying pan or sauté pan until it’s hot but not smoking. Drop heaping spoonfuls of batter into the oil, making sure not to crowd the pan. Fry on a medium heat until golden brown and flip to cook the other side.
Transfer the cooked latkes to the tray with the paper towel to drain slightly and then pop them on the rack to either keep warm in the oven (180C/350F) or cool to reheat later.
Note –
Take your time with the frying here - if you fry them too high, too quickly, the outside will burn before they cook through.
Ingredients
Parsnip & Sweet Potato Latkes
1kg of a combination of parsnip, sweet potato and potato (see best varieties above)
1 onion
2 tsp chopped fresh tarragon (sage also works well)
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tbsp flour
1 tsp salt & a good grind of pepper
Vegetable / sunflower / flavourless oil for shallow frying
Method
Parsnip & Sweet Potato Latkes
Peel and grate the parsnip, sweet potato, potato and onion together either on the large holes of a box grater or with the grating blade in your food processor.
Follow the instructions for wringing out the mixture in the pure potato version above. There will me less liquid and no starch though as there is very little potato here.
Tip it into a bowl, add the chopped tarragon, egg and flour, salt and pepper and follow the same cooking instructions as the potato latkes.
Ingredients
Beetroot, Carrot & Feta Latkes
600g raw beetroot
300g carrots
3 spring onions (scallions), thinly sliced white and green parts
2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
2 eggs, lightly beaten
3 tbsp plain flour
100g feta (or goats cheese), crumbled
Salt and pepper
Method
Beetroot, Carrot & Feta Latkes
These are the least traditional of the group but add a wonderful pop of colour to your party. The feta is a bonus, but feel free to leave it out if you want to keep these dairy free.
For this mixture, I highly recommend the food processor option if you have one. I also urge you to wear gloves!
Peel and grate the beets and carrots. Tip them into a large bowl and add the spring onions and parsley, eggs, flour and seasoning and mix everything together. Add the crumbled feta and fry as per the instructions above.
Toppings
These are just a suggestion. Feel free to get creative here with other savoury toppings. Smoked salmon, herring and salt beef are all firm favourites and make these snacks into a complete meal.
Ingredients
Apple and Cranberry Sauce
250g fresh or frozen cranberries, rinsed
1 large apple, peeled and cut into small cubes (or grated)
80g soft brown sugar
Juice of 1 orange plus a few long strips of zest
1 cinnamon stick
1 fresh bay leaf
Method
Apple and Cranberry Sauce
Place all the ingredients in a medium size saucepan and place on a medium heat. Simmer gently until cranberries “pop” and break up and the apple softens, around 10-15 minutes.
(If using frozen cranberries do not thaw first, but they may take a little longer to cook)
Stir well and remove from the heat.
Allow to cool and place in a clean jar with a lid. This will keep for about a month in the fridge.
Ingredients
Green Goddess Sour Cream
100g of fresh soft herbs. I like a combo of basil, tarragon, parsley, dill, chives
250g sour cream
Zest of a lemon
Pinch of salt
Method
Green Goddess Sour Cream
Finely chop all your herbs. Stir through the sour cream with lemon zest and salt. You can do this in a blender. The sour cream may thin little, but a short time back in the fridge it will firm back up to dipping texture.
Feel free to add an spring onion or a clove of garlic, but I prefer the pure herby flavour here for maximum mixing potential with the fruit sauces.
Ingredients
Horseradish Sour Cream
1-2 tsp horseradish sauce
250 grams sour cream
Method
Horseradish Sour Cream
This is basically a suggestion more than a recipe…….
Mix 1-2 tsp horseradish sauce (or grated white horseradish from a jar) into 250g sour cream. Horseradish, even in a jar, does vary in heat, so I urge to you to tase this and adjust accordingly. It gives the perfect tingle against the tartness of the cranberry and sweetness of the latkes.
